One of the places on my “I really hope I get to go there before I leave” list of Japan was Hakone, a town located about 2 hours south–west of Tokyo and known for its hot springs, mountain views (including Fuji), and beautiful shrines. I personally really wanted to visit the Hakone Open-Air Museum which has tons of unique, abstract pieces and sculptures that are just that much cooler in person. Luckily, my wish was fulfilled when my sister and her girlfriend, Aaron, came to visit me/cross off some travel destinations on their bucket list as well.
In comparison, Hakone is obviously much less populated than the larger cities of Japan, which means its train systems are not as fast or efficient. But this gives you more time to enjoy the scenery on either side of the train as you head towards each destination. The residential town located at the base of Hakone was such contrast from the bustling city of Tokyo. Everything moves at a much calmer pace, and there are a lot more trees and a lot less skyscrapers. It’s a really nice breath of fresh air for those who may miss more rural, nature-filled areas.
To get to the Open-Air Museum, you have ride one of Japan’s very few mountain railway systems, and there really aren’t many other things like it! As it zig-zags its way up the mountain, you are surrounded by trees; we happened to go as they were turning for the fall season, and it was beautiful. Soon we arrived at the museum, where upon entrance we were greeted by a mission statement and tribute to the artists, explaining the purpose of the museum was to promote a harmonic connection between contemporary art and nature that can only be done in the open-air format. It really was an eye-opening experience, seeing how cohesive many of the sculptures were with the area in which they were erected, and being able to peer into the creative minds behind the work. My favorite part was called “Symphonic Structure”. From the outside, it appears to be a regular lookout tower, but the inside is covered entirely with stained glass, and the sunlight filtering in makes it feel like you’re walking up some magical portal.
One of Hakone’s main features for tourists and locals alike is the self-titled “Hakone Shrine,” located on the shores of Lake Ashi, which connects many of the mountains in the Mt. Fuji area. Around where the shrine is located, there are a bunch of cafes and restaurants run by locals. We had a pretty simple lunch of curry and rice in a small shop where we sat next to a group of friends who were all in their 70s or 80s. We ended up chatting it up with them as best we could through the language barrier, but we were at least able to pick up that they thought Arron’s chopstick skills were jōzu, or really good. It made for a wholesome experience before we set off towards the shrine. It’s visible from the main part of town, but to get to it you have to follow a short trail through the woods. It’s not until you get to the stairs leading towards the shrine that you find out there’s a huge line waiting to get the iconic shot you see on social media. There is seriously an unspoken rule about making lines in Japan, and while sometimes it feels silly, it definitely makes things flow much smoother. We waited for a couple of minutes before deciding we were cool with a regular picture from a little bit further away. The large gate frames the scenery behind it in a way that makes it seem like it’d be nice to be able to just stand down there for a couple of minutes and take everything in. There’s a lot of small moments I’ve had during my time here that are a little overwhelming in the sense that it’s so surreal that I am even in Japan, and for some reason this was one of them.
Hakone is somewhere I would recommend you visit when you make it to Japan. It can even be a day trip out of Tokyo, and for the sights you’ll see, people you meet, and memories you’ll make, it’s worth it! Check out some of my other favorite moments in Japan, and my friends’ as well!
