By William Cook
German culture is something that many American’s do not completely understand. The culture of the former East Germany (D.D.R.) is something even more complex and interesting; proud, resilient people, immersed in art and entertainment. As a German student, I grew up learning about the beauty of Bavaria, the industry of the Rhineland and the grandeur of Neuschwanstein. What I never learned until visiting Leipzig last summer was what happened when the wall actually fell. I don’t mean what changed architecturally, politically or economically, rather what happened to the people as the world as they knew it changed overnight.
Leipzig is now a city of diversity. Foreigners, however, are greeted with both open arms and rejection. The city is home to countless restaurants featuring Indian, Turkish and East Asian cuisine, yet nearly all of the people on the streets and in the cafes, bars and restaurants are of European descent. In addition, a large number of “punks” and the occasional Neo-Nazis roam the streets. But this is to be expected of a city that was repressed for so many years. We witnessed at least one large demonstration of Neo‐Nazi youth in neighboring city Dresden, although it ended quickly after it began. It must be said that this act was a rare occurrence and by no means represents the majority of the people. It does show the conflict and struggle that still goes on today, despite tremendous progress and democratization.
This progress has made Leipzig a modern city, yet it is impossible to forget the past. One of my favorite experiences was the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum found in the Altstadt (old city). Literally meaning the Contemporary History Forum of Leipzig, this deceivingly large museum is dedicated to the Socialist period of East Germany that grew out of the original Soviet Zone established after World War II. Full of artifacts, interactive displays, recreated houses and offices, countless video clips and sound bites, it painted a picture of a world under constant surveillance, but one with its own culture and movements. There was music, film and art being created; it was just under ‘big brother’s’ watchful eye.
Today, Leipzig is a city in stark contrast to its former self. Powered by green energy (the German state of Saxony in which Leipzig lies uses wind, nuclear, solar and geo‐thermal energy to produce 40% of its power needs). Its 500,000 citizens utilize a network of trams, hybrid busses and efficient intercity trains to commute to and from work. Unemployment remains high (as it historically has in the east); yet social benefits ease the burden of being jobless. I always noticed an unusually high number of people in orange jumpsuits surveying streets and train lines. Is Leipzig a city of engineers or were the individuals just part of a state run employment agency to keep people in work?
Whatever the case may be, many people I spoke with during my time in Leipzig remembered the days when everyone was guaranteed a job…. something some were still bitter about. Yes, times were tough and people had very little, yet it was something that Leipzigers had grown to understand and accept. It was their comfort zone. This is what really changed when East met West. Suddenly, generations of people were at a crossroads and forced to adapt, modernize and most importantly westernize. The older generations made me realize that not everyone had done so. The oldest generations were comprised of savers, which held onto the culture they lost and wore the same clothes they did when Reagan asked Gorbachev to “tear down that wall.” On the other hand, the youngest dressed in the latest fashions (although socks and sandals are still somehow acceptable), spoke better English than most Americans, and traveled the world studying and vacationing.
Conflict? Somewhat. Was it a problem? No.
Leipzig was catapulted into a new world and how it affected the city’s residents is fascinating. As of today I am applying for a Fulbright to return to Leipzig and learn more about the people and the city that I left behind a year ago. Yes it is a beautiful city, the resting place of Bach, and a historical treasure, but in my opinion it is the people and their stories that make Leipzig a truly fascinating treasure.