On a brisk Friday morning, I woke up with the excitement that I would be experiencing my first migrant tour alongside my roommates. My knowledge of migration within Rome is very limited so I was looking forward to the expected enrichment that would come from the tour. Bright and early, my roommates and I went to Gatsby Cafe for a quick bite to eat and to meet our tour guide. Though only just the beginning, the day seemed pretty promising.
I met the tour guide outside of the cafe and learned a bit about the goal of this program. This migrant-led migrant tour intends to decrease the blind spot many locals and tourists have about migration in a variety of cities throughout the European Union. Our first stop was Piazza Emanuele, one of the biggest squares in Rome. There I learned that the Esquilino district was an optimal choice for migrants due to the previous low cost of living in the area. Many Italians did not want to live here and now it is one of the most multicultural districts in Rome.
The rest of the tour consisted of visiting different cultural areas of different ethnicities. One of these spots was a Japanese store that sold household items with traditional symbols. It was at this store where the duration of the migrant tour took a turn on me. As I took a picture of the display window at the Japanese store, I recall hearing yelling in my general direction from behind my back. In confusion, I turned unsuspectingly and made eye contact with a white woman that continued to yell at me in a language I am unable to understand. Her yells were a mix of the undetected language and English paired with the middle finger she stuck at me the entire time. The only thing I could understand was “Just because you’re Black doesn’t mean you’re better than anyone else.” The interaction was met with confusion that turned into rage as I defended myself. Despite not running into each other before and not seeing her prior to her yelling, I could not help but mourn the fact that I was a target of misdirected rage.
In that moment, all I remember is the embarrassment of being made to feel small in front of my friends and the tears that accompanied this frustration. This was such a random encounter of racism that I never would have imagined for myself. Prior to this encounter, Rome has been pretty open and welcoming to my presence as a Black woman. Why is it that after four comfortable months here, I am now a victim of blatant racism? I suppose I feel the irony of it finally happening to me while on a migrant tour and in one of the most diverse neighborhoods in all of Rome. In the attempt to rewire my thinking on the topic, I will say that it has been confirmed for me that while a place can be diverse, it does not necessarily mean that there is adversity present.
Despite what happened to me, I continued on with the tour. I was determined to continue my day as planned without letting someone as ignorant and hurtful as that stranger woman ruin it. I am grateful that I proceeded on because my mind was forced to not think about it as much and I was even able to crack a few jokes with my friends to pass time. As my time in Rome decreases every day, I want to experience as much as I can before I return to the U.S. My favorite part of the tour ended up coming not too soon after.
The tour led us to this Italian school that teaches English to everyone who attends the class. Instruction is offered in a variety of languages and is open to those who do not have papers or documentation to ensure their stay in Italy. I find this very notable because it aids in migrants’ ability to transition into their new surroundings. Part of traveling is language immersion and it is important to understand as much of the foreign language as possible. Not everyone speaks your language or is willing to accommodate you in a country that is not your actual home.
I will say though that the end of the tour left off on a strange note, mirroring the energy of the yelling encounter I experienced near the Japanese store. Despite it all, I am very grateful for the opportunity to browse Esquilino and get a feel of different cultures in multiple ways. I also feel like I grew closer to not only my roommates, but also the other envoy members! I suppose it could have been a manner of trauma bonding. We ended the tour and all went to get food at Shawarma Station. It was such a nice time eating together and reflecting on the highs and lows of our day.
The last stop of the tour was the Mercato di Esquilino! This hub sold products of all trades. Whether you need fabric, clothes, food, or a shower scrub, this market has something to offer everyone. It tickled my heart seeing such a widespread community full of different cultures selling their authentic goods. There is true unity in this space and all of the workers at the stands were so nice and offered generous smiles as our migrant group passed by. One of the workers gave us lots of dates for the class to try. I never tried dates before and I was surprised to find out just how much I liked them, even eating more than one as evidence.
Learn more about the Culture & Identity Envoy Program at Temple Rome.