On TUJ Kyoto’s list of semester activities was a weekend trip to Beppu, Oita to visit bathhouses and the “seven hells,” known as seven naturally occurring onsens that you can visit in the area. But, in order to get to Beppu I’d need to conquer the Beppu Sunshine Ferry ride from Osaka to Beppu to and from. I’d decided it was high tide (wink wink) for some exposure therapy
Inside the Sunshine Ferry
The Beppu Sunflower Kurenai holds a deadweight tonnage of 17,114 tons and a length of 199.9 meters, making it by far the biggest “ferry” I’ve ever been on. The grandiose stairs went up into the bowels of the ship, and there was an elevator nearby if you were wealthy enough to be on the higher floors with better-quality rooms. We were delegated 4-person bunks on the 7th floor. Not very spacious, or glamourous, but it would do for the night.
The Seven Hells of Beppu
The ‘Seven Hells’ are known as seven fire-hot naturally occurring hot springs system designated a ‘Place of Scenic Beauty’ by the Japanese government. They’re way too hot for any human being to withstand for even a second, but you can look! And take pictures, which I sure did a lot of.
📍#1 Umi Jigoku
The first hell we started with was Umi Jigoku, translating as ‘sea hell.’ The water is a vibrant blue color that looks inviting enough to jump right in… until you realize that the surface bubbles to a staggering 98 degrees Celsius (205 F). The high iron sulfate levels are what cause the pretty color but also makes the surrounding area smell absolutely rancid. Apparently, the water is used to boil onsen tamago aka ‘onsen eggs’ that are an Oita special and a popular delicacy in the area.
📍#2 Oniishi Bozu Jigoku
Also known as the ‘muddy monk head hell,’ this hell has a goopy, gray, clay-like appearance. It’s one of the smaller onsens, with two smaller ponds for visitors to look at. There was also a smaller pool for onlookers and tourists to dip their feet in the water. The gardens surrounding the onsen are picturesque, with rushing rivers and stone laid paths.
📍#3 Kamado Jigoku
‘Cooking Pot Hell’ changes colors often due to the weather and is surrounded by a wide variety of Oita specialty street food stalls. This made it the most crowded hell by far. It included all sorts of fun things surrounding the water, which was a crisp clear blue, like onsen water you could drink for 10 yen. Kamado Jigoku felt more like a waterpark than a scenic site thanks to the food and activities present leading up to the onsen.
📍#4 Oniyama Jigoku
I have nice things to say about all the hells…except this one. Oniyama Jigoku aka ‘Alligator Hell’ is the only hell that includes live animals. Classified as a ‘zoo’ on Google Maps, this hell is the only one I wouldn’t wish for any living creature.
The enclosures for the gators are criminally small to the point where even I felt bad for these beautiful creatures. Gators might be predators in Florida, but it’s hard for anything to attack when submerged in miniscule enclosures with a pitiful amount of water. I didn’t stay for very long and elected to step outside with a few other classmates who also abhor Japan’s lack of animal rights. The whole thing left a pretty sour taste in my mouth as a foreigner and confused me how so many locals can go out of their way to support such unethical places.
📍#5 Shiraike Jigoku
‘White Pond’ is a heart-shaped onsen that actually features a varying species of tropical fish in an aquarium nearby. There are even classical paintings inside the heart of the building – away from the 95 degrees Celsius water surface. It’s pretty minimal, doesn’t really contain as many wow factors as Kamado or a merch store like Umi. The view was quite peaceful though and for those who stick around longer, this is a great place to find heaven among all of these hells.
📍#6 Chinoike Jigoku
After visiting the first five hells, we trekked to the bus stop and smushed into the crowded city bus that took us to the site of the last two. Chinoike Jigoku literally translates to ‘blood pond hell’ and has the most alarming appearance of the lot. This hell is also incredibly large and after entering through the main gates, features a sprawling cobble area that outlines the red oozing waters. There are benches to sit and watch the fumes, and the smell isn’t as oppressive as the other onsens. Or maybe I’d just gone completely nose blind by this point.
📍#7 Tatsumaki Jigoku
Next to Chinoike Jigoku was the final hell of the tour, Tatsumaki Jigoku (‘tornado hell’). On this tour, this hell will most likely occupy most of your time. Tatsumaki Jigoku is the site of a geyser, making it the most unique onsen so far. The geyser only erupted every 30-40 minutes, so you have no choice but to sit in the amphitheater and wait for it to explode. The woman over the loudspeaker gave some helpful context to the history of the site, stating that the cobblestone surrounding the geyser was constructed to prevent it from going up too high as it has reached a recorded height of about thirty meters.
With that, my journey through the seven hells of Beppu came to a close. The Office of Student Services and Engagement (OSSE) crafted a really exciting weekend trip and I’m glad I got the opportunity to go!
If you want to learn more about Temple University Japan and study abroad in Kyoto, I’d highly recommend checking out the Temple Study Abroad website! Here on our Global Storytellers blog, you can also read more stories from students abroad across the globe just like me!